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TIME: STYLE & DESIGN
Spring, 2004
Who Will Be The Next Domestic Diva?
Author: Marion Hume
Edition: Style & Design
...Ho, whose Rescue magazine is pitched to those in "Martha
recovery." While they all tout their own particular niche, what they
share is tricks to fake the painstaking perfectionism that earned the
queen of lifestyle her crown.
And television audiences are responding. On Home & Garden Television
and the Food Network, among the fastest-growing ad-supported cable networks,
the non-perfectionist programming is scoring the highest ratings. The
Food Network's roster of shows launched in 2003 reads like a self help
catalog for cooking enthusiasts: Easy Entertaining and Everyday
Italian as well as Lee's Semi-Homemade.
Even without ImClone, perfection is, it seems, an outmoded goal in an
anxious world. "We're getting more realistic about what we can achieve.
We don't want to be perfect homemakers. We just want to be surrounded
by family and love and safety," says Shoshana Berger, dubbed "cheeky
Martha" for her magazine, ReadyMade, which includes such
tricks as how to turn an old blender into a lamp.
When it comes to shortcuts, Sandra Lee wrote the book - or two - the
first of which quickly became a best seller. Lee, who was raised in
Sumner, Wash., appears on the Food Network, cheerily adding a can of
Campbell's mushroom soup to ground turkey and calling it Stroganoff.
The 36-year-old's Semi-Homemade philosophy preaches the use of 70% prepared
products and 30% fresh foods, plus a dash of ingenuity, yet this gleeful
application of packaged food is far from half-baked. Lee has a multimedia
deal with Miramax that includes television, books and merchandise.
It is all about being kinder, to others and to ourselves. While style
has entered every crevice of our lives and there is no stuffing it back
in the closet, even Carson Kressley of Bravo's Queer Eye for the Straight
Guy is hardly Tom Ford when it comes to chic. But the show - which
has been picked up by networks around the globe - works because Kressley's
snappy banter is underscored with tolerance and generosity.
While Ted Allen, the Queer Eye food and wine connoisseur, won't
let straight folks serve up Cheez Whiz, Semi-Homemade's Lee swears by
it as a flavor base. "It's about getting that 'from scratch' result
without all the energy and effort," claims Lee. It is also about
priorities. "Life is the blink of an eye," she says. "When
you realize how short it ultimately is and how really insignificant perfection
is, that doesn't mean you don't want to do things well, but you want to
do them faster so you can take a bath, drink a glass of wine or read a
book."
All that is forbidden is snobbery. Lee, who was forced to cook for her
four younger siblings at the age of 9 because their mother was seriously
ill, has since used trial and error to make quick fixes taste better.
She'll add cream cheese, sugar and flour to store-bought slice-and-bake
cookies to make them tastier while making life easier so that "even
Mom, when she doesn't have time because she's working her little tushy
off, can roll it out with the kids and enjoy the fun part." At a
time when we are judged more by the love we share than by what we have
and want - according to the newly minted lifestylers - it is no surprise
Oprah is extending her reach in the market, publishing two issues of a
home-design magazine this year.
Sandra Lee's forte does not include pig rearing, and the home-craft
maven, who made her mark on QVC selling curtains, doesn't sew a stitch
if she can avoid it. Yet Semi-Homemade is broad in other directions, encompassing,
for example, romance in a "Sexy in Seventeen Minutes" feature
in its online magazine. There she advises fans to spend minute 14 brushing
Pixy Stix candy powder over chest and cleavage to "take even the
busiest multitasker from tired to tantalizing." Such are the warmth
and zeal of Lee.
Lee is neither shy nor wary that in building herself into a brand, there's
a risk that, should it go wrong, it will be she who gets ripped apart.
"You know one of the great things that just happened with Martha?"
responds the woman dubbed "the next Martha" so often it is almost
an adjunct to her name. "I always look at the brighter side and now
I know exactly what not to do." Lee relishes what lies ahead. "I
think there's always been a brand or an identity that people can relate
to, whether it's Betty Crocker or Julia Child or Martha Stewart or Sandra
Lee. You need to be able to identify with people who make sense to you.
You can't identify with Mr. Clean!"
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